Brasstown Bald, Georgia - Classic Appalachain "Shrub Bald" of the North Georgia Mountains

Typical scenery along the trail up to Brasstown Bald.
If you are ever in the Atlanta area and you want to get away from the heat and craziness inside the I-275 Beltway, you can head north on US-19 up through Dahlonega to the Southern Appalachian Mountains near Blairsville. Its about 116 miles and two hours to Blairsville but the cool green mountains are worth the trek. One time when I was on business in Atlanta, Norcross to be exact, I found myself with a long weekend and as I had explored the metro area pretty well on previous trips, I decided to head north to Brasstown Bald which at 4,784 feet is the tallest mountain in the State of Georgia. Brasstown Bald is located in a wilderness area of the same name and it is part of the Blue Ridge Mountains. As I made my way up US HWY 19 and then State Highway 180, I was struck by how green the vegetation was! There were vines covering everything on the sides of the road and climbing up the trunks of the trees. It was a rainy, steamy, hazy day in Georgia and the clouds were swirling around the higher peaks as I gained elevation. Now to someone from the Western United States, these are not peaks at all but rather hills compared to the Rocky Mountains. However, when you go from sea level to over 4,000 feet you do pass through several distinct climate zones and when you arrive at the summit you have quite the vista. I followed a spur road off of Highway 180 about 3 miles up to the Brasstown Bald trail and visitor’s center parking lot. During business hours, a van will drive you to the summit of the mountain or you can take the ¼ mile nature trail up to the top.
Path from parking area to summit is an easy paved grade.
The mountain was practically deserted when I visited on account of the overcast condition. I parked my car, looked around a bit in the visitor’s center and then headed up the trail to the top of the mountain. Brasstown Bald is located on the Chattahoochee National Forest and a portion of the Appalachian Trail runs by it. All told there are a variety of trails on the mountain ranging from the 1/2 mile route I am describing to a much longer 9.3 mile trek that can be started lower down which gains over 2,700 feet on its way to the summit. According to information I obtained from trail signs and the visitors center, this mountain is known to the native Cherokee people as “Enotah” which means “New green place” – or “Fresh Green place”. This is a totally fitting name as everything looked as if it received moisture regularly up in the “cloud forest” around the bald peaks. The rocks, primarily mica schist, that were not covered in bright green moss and lichens were wet, dark and slippery. The path was grassy and the trunks of the trees were covered with lichens and green furry moss. There were sedges, and ferns on the forest floor with mtn ash, maple, birch and oak being the principle trees. There were also blue berry, service berry, rhododendron and mountain laurel. As I followed the path up and gained several hundred feet in elevation I could see Blood Mountain to the south west rising above the clouds. The trail I was on was built by the Civilian Conservation Corps back in the 1930’s and about halfway up I crossed what is known as the “Wagon train road”. This old path reminded me of the road less traveled from the Robert Frost poem as it was a grassy two track that disappeared about 50 yards down the way as it rounded the mountain in the forest. The Wagon train road was built by convict labor in the 1950’s and for many years families from Young Harris township used to travel up it to have picnics on the bald.
Copious amounts of precipitation cause ferns and mosses to proliferate.

Interesting little tid bits of history and information that can be picked up from brochures, trail signs and visitor centers as you travel along. Anyway, many of the peaks in the area are called “Shrub Balds” according to the information in the visitor’s center. Shrub Balds are located primarily in the Southern Appalachians and are usually anywhere from 4,000-6,000 feet in elevation. Heath shrubs such as the rhododendron are the main plants growing on the balds. I found Brasstown Bald to be interesting in the fact that its summit climate was similar to those found over 1,000 miles north. The highest recorded temperature on the Bald was 84 degrees while the lowest was minus 27. The Mountain receives around 65-75 inches of rain a year and is generally 10 degrees cooler than surrounding areas. There are several theories for the strange occurrence of these bald peaks in an otherwise totally vegetated area. One is that due to the high winds and harsh environment, timber is stunted and discouraged by the elements from attaining great height. Another is that the Cherokee cleared their summits long ago for camps and signaling. As I do when I’m out west, I stopped to wonder about the indigenous peoples who once inhabited “Enotah”. It made me sad to think that they all traveled the trail of tears west where many of them perished as they were forced to leave their lands. I thought about how the Cherokee must have loved and even worshipped this beautiful mountain. They are all gone now. Things I think about as I hike through the forest. The trail only climbs 500 feet in .5 miles but once you emerge from the forest you see the tower / observation deck on the summit of “Wolf pen Ridge” and from it’s steps and lookout, you have a fine 360 degree view of the Southern Appalachians and the 13,000 acre Brasstown Bald Wilderness. Inside the Observation deck there are numerous interesting displays on the geology of the mountain, flora & fauna, and one that I found interesting in particular was a great tree that had its rings exposed where you could see the landing of the mayflower, the American Civil War, WWII and other significant events in the tree rings. The area was apparently very important to the lumber industry and a bunch of exhibits talk about the logging history. If you do some hiking in this part of the Chattahoochee National Forest you could possibly see wild turkey, black bear, fox, bobcat, deer, raccoon or other various varmints. There are also 31 different species of salamander slithering and slinking about in the forest. You will undoubtedly hear songbirds singing and the forest itself is refreshing when you think back on the gridlock of I-275 and the concrete jungle that is downtown Atlanta. In the springtime they say the wildflowers are best from February through July. In fall the trees explode with a colorful show that usually peaks around the 3rd week of October. This easily accessible summit is a great destination for people of all ages and abilities. Take the shuttle or the paved .5 mile trail to the summit. Browse the gift shop and visitors center and just stop and sit for awhile and observe the greenery and rounded humps of the Blue Ridge Mountains in the mist. For more information call the Visitors information center at (706) 745-6928 or visit their website.
Northern Georgia Mountains - sometimes referred to as "Shrub Balds"

Brasstown Bald Summit Museum

Brasstown Bald Trail - North Georgia Mountains



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