Portland Head Lighthouse - Maine

Portland Head - Maine

I have traveled to numerous lighthouses up and down both coasts of the United States, however, there is one light in particular that has captured my imagination for years. That is the Portland Head Lighthouse on old Fort Williams – Cape Elizabeth, Maine. It’s neat looking, red roofed keepers quarters and white brick / rubble stone tower, perched on the rocky knob of Portland Head overlooking the deep is a scene that has no doubt captured the imagination of millions over the years. I’ve had the good fortune to visit this incredible spot on several occasions. On my last visit there with my wife, the sky was clear blue and the air was cold and crisp. There was no-one there but us and the facility was closed. During my visit the noise of waves crashing on the rocky edge of the continent was ever present in the background. The grounds were neatly kept and there were some interesting objects around – an attractive concrete compass rose near the sidewalk, an old ship’s bell and a rusted canon that no doubt was retrieved from a wreck out in the deep after a long slumber. The 20 foot cliffs the lighthouse sits atop are dark colored solid continuous rock……however, there is a small cove immediately south of this perch that has a beach of granite cobbles that have been smoothed round over time. From a vantage point overlooking this cove from the south, you have a most picturesque view of the whole place. This is the oldest lighthouse in Maine and one of the oldest in the Country. George Washington ordered it’s construction and the original structure was completed in 1791. The light was necessary as violent storms, treacherous seas, hidden rock outcrops and limited visibility wreaked havoc on shipping back in the day. Portland Harbor, known as Falmouth Harbor was back in the old times of New England…..the O’Hare Airport of today. It’s harbor and Casco Bay were filled with old large masted ships – schooners, sloops and later steamers. By 1855 it is said that Portland accounted for 1/3 of ALL U.S. Shipping!!! Tons of freight and many lives were lost to the sea before and even after the Lighthouse at Portland Head was constructed. No doubt many lives have been saved since its construction due to its white beam that shoots out to sea every 4 seconds, a friend to the mariner that reaches 24 miles out across the ocean. The most bizarre tale about the light that I am aware of is that of the wreck of the “Annie C. Maguire”. On Christmas eve of 1886, this 3 masted tall ship rammed right into Portland head mere feet from the Lighthouse itself. The tale of the rescue of the crew by the heroic light keeper Joshua F. Strout and his family is told at the following website maintained by Jeremy D’Entremont http://lighthouse.cc/portlandhead/history.html There is also a  detailed history of the lighthouse at this website. I stood for some time looking upon the lighthouse from the perch above the rocky cove with cobbles for a beach. The relentless pounding of the waves upon the rocks, the deep, dark blue swirling frigid waters at the base of the rocks was un nerving. I imagined that if failed to pay attention for only a moment at the waters edge, I would be swept out to sea and lost forever in the dark cold of Neptune’s deep. It was a frightening thought so I kept my distance. The smell of salt and sea, the scene of ships on the horizon beyond the green buoy, sea birds and a cool breeze, coupled with the unbelievable scene of the lighthouse before me made for an agreeable experience. The lighthouse website is http://www.portlandheadlight.com/ As you will notice by visiting this website, there are numerous other sites to see around Cape Elizabeth in addition to the Lighthouse. Fort Williams, Cape Elizabeth Light or “Two Lights” as it is sometimes called, the old Goddard Mansion and the Battery “Erasmus Keyes” are all things that I highly recommend on your visit to this place. A kind woman there saw that we were intrigued with place so she opened up the giftshop and museum for us. The lighthouse museum has a Fresnel lens on display and some fine souvenir items for purchase. We left with an armload of lighthouse paraphernalia from the shop and a couple hundred bucks lighter……but each penny was worth it as this is one of our favorite places in the world. Old Fort Williams where Portland Head Light is located is open to the public from sunrise to sunset. The area around the lighthouse outside the fence can be explored any time between these hours. For museum and giftshop hours, please contact the Portland Head Light at (207) 799-2661. This lighthouse should be on the “Bucket List” of anyone who appreciates such things as a site not to be missed.